I enjoy shooting with antique cameras, and also have a variety of cameras that I have in my office to inspire me in my creative endeavors. I also like to find obscure cameras and photographic items and second hand stores, antique stores and in unexpected places. I end up with a lot of different models, and figured it was time to thin out the collection and start selling some of my antique cameras and accessories.
I started an Etsy site to sell some of my cameras, and also begin to showcase some of my handcrafted photographic images. I started working on this a few years ago, but other things prevented me from completing my task.
I will be listing different cameras, camera accessories and ephemera. New items will be added each week so stop by to see what I have to post and sell. Soon I will be adding some of my handcrafted photographic images.
If you stop by, thanks for looking!
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Showing posts with label antique camera. Show all posts
Showing posts with label antique camera. Show all posts
Sunday, January 31, 2016
Sunday, March 9, 2014
Building a Moustrap Camera
This year marks the 175th anniversary of photography. One of photography's inventors, William Fox Talbot, used various small cameras to record his photographic studies.
From Heilbrunn timeline of art history:
Mr. Talbot's inventiveness was the inspiration to create a mousetrap camera of my own. I contacted Roger Watson, curator of the Fox Talbot Museum. Mr. Watson helped explain how to make these cameras:
I still had no idea what focal length this lens would be. I focused the lens on the window across the room, and as it drew a faint image into focus on the wall I measured that distance with a ruler. It was somewhere around 3-4 inches in focal length.
I made a rough box out of foam core and used wax paper as a focusing screen. After playing around with this for a bit, and focusing it on different objects around the house, I decided to build a little mousetrap camera. With the lens between 3-4 inches in focal length, I built the camera 3 inches in height and width, and 3.5 inches in depth. The copper pipe/lens assembly is held with pressure at the front of the camera, and can be pushed and pulled in and out to aid in focusing.
Talbot used a cork on the front of his cameras, and he would peer
through the front of the camera to see what was in focus, and then
re-cork the camera before loading it with sensitive paper. I found this
to be rather awkward, so I took a page from modern cameras and used some wax paper to make a crude focusing screen. I could focus the camera outside and
set the lens, and then return to the darkroom and load it with
sensitized paper.
Taking a photograph is a multi-step process. First the camera is taken outside and the focusing screen is used to frame up the subject. The lens is pushed and pulled until the image is in focus. The camera then goes into the darkroom and a piece of photo sensitive paper is placed and sealed inside the camera. The camera is taken back outside and the image is made. Finally, the camera returns to the darkroom, the paper removed and developed.
Talbot used special sensitized drawing paper he made himself. I had the luxury to use regular enlarging paper in my cameras to make negatives.
After the negatives were developed and dried, I scanned the negatives and inverted them in the digital darkroom to make positive images. Overall I was very pleased with the results. The negatives were a little flat and lacked some contrast. Luckily that could be fixed with the help of Photoshop. The lens was never intended to be shot wide open, it had a much smaller stop inside so that only the "sweet spot" in the center was used, and the outer corners with swirls and light fall off were never seen. In my camera, the lens is used almost wide open, so you can see all the effects of a simple meniscus lens when it is used to make photographs. Images were all about three seconds in exposure, and developed for about 1.5 minutes in the Cafenol developer.
So what is next? Now that I am comfortable with the focal length and design, I would like to build my mousetrap camera out of wood instead of foam core and duct tape. I would also like to learn Mr. Talbot's sensitized paper formula, and make more images of course! I can't wait for the weather to get warmer, so I can get out in the garage and start building my camera, and making more images.
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| William Henry Fox Talbot, by John Moffat, 1864 |
From Heilbrunn timeline of art history:
As his chemistry improved, Talbot returned to his original idea of photographic images made in a camera. During the "brilliant summer of 1835," he took full advantage of the unusually abundant sunshine and placed pieces of sensitized photogenic drawing paper in miniature cameras—"mouse traps," his wife called them—set around the grounds to record the silhouette of Lacock Abbey's animated roofline and trees. The pictures, Talbot wrote, "without great stretch of the imagination might be supposed to be the work of some Lilliputian artist."
Mr. Talbot's inventiveness was the inspiration to create a mousetrap camera of my own. I contacted Roger Watson, curator of the Fox Talbot Museum. Mr. Watson helped explain how to make these cameras:
"...find a focal length and build a box around it. Talbot used a simple meniscus lens (flat on one side and curved on the other)... Talbot had almost 80 different cameras in all different sizes so anything you make will be close to the size of one of these cameras."I've built a few cameras here and there, and have a tackle box full of camera building materials. Luckily I saved an old meniscus lens from a broken box camera, and this would be the lens I would build my camera around. The lens is about 18mm across, and with the help of a rubber washer and a piece of coiled wire, it is held snugly in place inside a piece of copper 3/4 inch water pipe (left over from a plumbing repair).
I still had no idea what focal length this lens would be. I focused the lens on the window across the room, and as it drew a faint image into focus on the wall I measured that distance with a ruler. It was somewhere around 3-4 inches in focal length.
I made a rough box out of foam core and used wax paper as a focusing screen. After playing around with this for a bit, and focusing it on different objects around the house, I decided to build a little mousetrap camera. With the lens between 3-4 inches in focal length, I built the camera 3 inches in height and width, and 3.5 inches in depth. The copper pipe/lens assembly is held with pressure at the front of the camera, and can be pushed and pulled in and out to aid in focusing.
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| A view through my small mousetrap camera, showing the lens assembly. |
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| This is my little mousetrap camera built out of black foam core and duct tape. The waxed paper focusing screen (right) snaps in the back of the camera to focus the image. |
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| A view of the trees across my yard through my little mousetrap camera. Like all view cameras the image is upside down and backwards on the focusing screen. |
Taking a photograph is a multi-step process. First the camera is taken outside and the focusing screen is used to frame up the subject. The lens is pushed and pulled until the image is in focus. The camera then goes into the darkroom and a piece of photo sensitive paper is placed and sealed inside the camera. The camera is taken back outside and the image is made. Finally, the camera returns to the darkroom, the paper removed and developed.
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| I used sticks to outline my camera. This way I could tell exactly where the camera should go after focusing and then later returning with the camera loaded with photo sensitive paper. |
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| Here is the darkroom, complete with coffee-based Cafenol developer (left). Finished images are sitting in the fixer tray (right). |
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| The 2.5 inch square paper negatives hang out to dry. |
Talbot used special sensitized drawing paper he made himself. I had the luxury to use regular enlarging paper in my cameras to make negatives.
After the negatives were developed and dried, I scanned the negatives and inverted them in the digital darkroom to make positive images. Overall I was very pleased with the results. The negatives were a little flat and lacked some contrast. Luckily that could be fixed with the help of Photoshop. The lens was never intended to be shot wide open, it had a much smaller stop inside so that only the "sweet spot" in the center was used, and the outer corners with swirls and light fall off were never seen. In my camera, the lens is used almost wide open, so you can see all the effects of a simple meniscus lens when it is used to make photographs. Images were all about three seconds in exposure, and developed for about 1.5 minutes in the Cafenol developer.
![]() |
| You can see the light fall off in the corners, and the out of focus areas o the outside of the frame. |
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| The lens recorded the trees, grass, and the bank of leftover snow quite nicely. |
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| I tried a macro type photo through a small grape arbor looking out towards my garden. The lens was pulled almost all the way forward to focus. |
Labels:
175th anniversary of photography,
1839,
antique camera,
black and white,
box camera,
caffeine,
caffenol,
darkroom,
homemade,
inventor.,
landscape,
mousetrap camera,
William Fox Talbot
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Balda Super Baldina: Shootin 1950's style
I received a text message from my good friend Anne. It read "What's a Balda?" She found this nice little chrome camera at the local Goodwill store, and wanted to tell me about it.
She sent along a picture with her text message. At first I thought it was a medium format camera, because it looked too big for 35mm. Well I was wrong, this cute little camera is actually a 35mm rangefinder camera from postwar Germany.
She said I would probably like shooting with it, so she sent it off to me to add to my antique camera collection. Thanks Anne!
As with anything in my life, first came the research on this camera. Tracking down the history of the camera is just part of the fun.
The camera was made by the Western Balda Company in the 1950's, and christened with the name Super Baldina. It has a collapsible lens that snaps into the camera body, and is a split image range finder camera. It was made in a few different versions. This version has one of the more common three element Baldanar 2.8 50mm lenses. If you would like to read more about this camera you can check out an article here.
The camera came in half of it's original case, but it is in remarkably good shape. It probably sat around for a while, but has wear marks which show that it was used quite a bit. The rewind knob on the left side of the camera has worn through the printed text on top of the dial from rewinding lots of film.
I cleaned the front elements of the lens, and cleaned the front and rear glass on the viewfinders and rangefinder windows. I did a run though on the shutter speeds and apertures. The slow speeds seemed a little off (slow) so I stuck to shutter speeds 1/60 and up to be on the safe side. The big question mark for this camera was the rangefinder. It is a series of mirrors that reflects light into the viewfinder, and allows you to superimpose two images together in order to focus the camera. Not knowing if the rangefinder was calibrated (or if the camera had been dropped down a flight of stairs in its lifetime), I put a roll of my favorite black and white film in the camera (Arista.edu Ultra 200 or Foma 200) and took it for a walk in the woods with the kids.
And the results: WOW! The camera is amazing. The rangefinder was in perfect calibration, as I made images both close up and far away to test out the focusing abilities. My biggest surprise was the sharpness of this lens. The photos are tack sharp, amazingly sharp to be honest, especially coming from a consumer grade camera from the 1950's.This camera is all metal and glass, no plastic and no batteries. It is very well made and worked flawlessly. Not bad for a 60 year old camera!
She sent along a picture with her text message. At first I thought it was a medium format camera, because it looked too big for 35mm. Well I was wrong, this cute little camera is actually a 35mm rangefinder camera from postwar Germany.
She said I would probably like shooting with it, so she sent it off to me to add to my antique camera collection. Thanks Anne!
As with anything in my life, first came the research on this camera. Tracking down the history of the camera is just part of the fun.
The camera was made by the Western Balda Company in the 1950's, and christened with the name Super Baldina. It has a collapsible lens that snaps into the camera body, and is a split image range finder camera. It was made in a few different versions. This version has one of the more common three element Baldanar 2.8 50mm lenses. If you would like to read more about this camera you can check out an article here.
![]() |
| The cute little 35mm Balda with the lens extended in the shooting position. |
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| $6.38, not bad :) |
![]() |
| You can see the wear marks from rewinding lots of film in this camera. |
![]() |
| A sticker inside the camera from McCurry Foto Co. in Sacramento, California. |
And the results: WOW! The camera is amazing. The rangefinder was in perfect calibration, as I made images both close up and far away to test out the focusing abilities. My biggest surprise was the sharpness of this lens. The photos are tack sharp, amazingly sharp to be honest, especially coming from a consumer grade camera from the 1950's.This camera is all metal and glass, no plastic and no batteries. It is very well made and worked flawlessly. Not bad for a 60 year old camera!
![]() |
| A picture of my kids perfectly focused, with out of focus elements in the foreground and background. |
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| The lens did great with this closeup. And beautiful details in the whites of the flowers. |
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| A landscape shot of the lake. I wish I would have had a red filter to punch up the clouds in the sky. |
Labels:
35mm,
antique camera,
Balda,
rangefinder
Location:
St Joseph, IL, USA
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